[dropcap]S[/dropcap]alento is one of Colombia’s most picturesque towns. Unlike some comparable gems, however, it has retained its traditional culture. Salento is not a colonial relic stalled in time and preserved for nostalgia. The local community still works the land to give this coffee town a lived-in aura of authenticity that dates back more than 150 years.
As the oldest settlement in Quindío department, Salento is the heart of the nation’s coffee triangle in the lush, green Andes mountains. Its foundations lie in the brown grounds that brighten every morning, and other colors add a different brand of flavor. Buildings are red, blue, pink, green, orange, yellow, and aquamarine. Window trimming comes in contrasting shades, and the prettiest establishments are topped by adobe-tiled roofs the color of worn brick.
Locals and tourists alike gather in the plaza from first light to late evening around stands selling food, juices, and crafts. Here they sit in plastic chairs and enjoy a simple corn arepa con queso, a calorie-packed bandeja paisa, or the local specialty of grilled trout.
This is also the time to listen to men in traditional hats, ponchos, and rubber boots play their guitars in the plaza. The wide-brimmed sombreros are as ubiquitous around town as the Willys Jeeps that serve as both workhorse vehicles on the farm and taxis for tourists. Many of these 4×4 were built for the U.S. military in the 1950s and arrived in Colombia after the army found willing buyers for the surplus fleets they brought home following the Korean War.
They may need a few turns of the key to get the engine to roll over. But with a little care, the Willys remain reliable enough to drive the local economy, whether that is hauling sacks of beans or transporting a dozen foreigners to tour nearby coffee farms or the beautiful Cocora Valley.
While Salento has unmatched charm, it cannot outshine Cocora Valley. The valley is green, wet, and unique with wax palms, the national tree of Colombia, that can grow as tall as 50 meters (164 feet).
The best way to see them is to hike the full loop. At a muddy 12 kilometers, walking the trail takes most of the day. Locals call it a six-hour trek, but that includes ample break time to enjoy lunch and watch the hummingbirds high in the hills. Able-bodied visitors of virtually ages complete the path — and are rewarded by a final descent into a valley full of hundreds of giant palm trees that are sure to awe.
To get to Cocora Valley from Salento, head to the plaza before 8:30 am and jump in a Willys taxi. For $3,000 pesos per person, the drier will get you to the trailhead. There are a few small shops if you want to buy water. Carry a liter or two, a sandwich, and snacks for the day. Also bring sunscreen, a raincoat, and shoes you don’t mind getting muddy. For those not up for the walk, horse rentals are available or you can merely forego the long route and go straight to the valley to see the palms on a short walk (one hour round trip).
For more challenging treks and high-mountain vistas, Los Nevados National Park is also nearby. Hotels and tour companies can arrange a visit. The National Coffee Park is another popular destination while coffee farms, like Finca El Ocaso, offer educational fun tours. And for those who just want to stay in town, there is a pool hall, tejo court, or countless small restaurants and bars to enjoy a few cervezas.
Where to Eat
Restaurante Donde Laurita has a traditional Colombian menu and ambiance. With artifacts of the region’s cultural past, handmade bird carvings, and various other oddities adorning the walls and ceilings, it resembles an early version of Bogota?’s famous Andre?s Carne de Res. This is what you imagine that national institution looked like be- fore ballooning to its modern-day excess.
Bernabe is another well-reviewed option with popular steak. Makeo serves up lasagnas, pastas, and curries rarely found elsewhere. La Eliana offers a courtyard and balcony. And keep in mind: You don’t have to choose in advance. The plaza and nearby streets are packed with similarly styled restaurants and watering holes, most of which have the same menu.
Where to Stay
Hotel Beta is the best bet for foreigners. While not the Ritz Carlton, it’s a modernized take on the other classic hotels in town that has good showers and comfortable beds. It also has one of the best restaurants in town along with a large television in the bar, small football field, and tejo court. The owners’ talking parrot “Marcela” will even welcome you upon arrival. Rooms start at $200,000 pesos per night, with a king suite for two people costing around $300,000 pesos.
La Serrana is the other top choice. Located about a 2 kilometers from the plaza, the walk (or short Willys ride) can grow old during a long stay. But the views from this rustic, eco-hotel on a working farm cannot be beat. It is popular among backpackers and usually full of interesting characters. Dorm beds cost less than $36,000 pesos per night while private rooms run around $100,000 pesos. Camping is also available.
Getting There
When flying to the region from either Bogota? or Medelli?n (round trip tickets often costing US$100 or less on Avianca), you have two airport options: Pereira or Armenia. The Quindi?o capital of Armenia is closer (about a half hour in a taxi) while driving from Pereira will take an hour.
The route from Pereira to Salento is one of the best-maintained roads in all of Colombia, so either choice is fine. Hotels can arrange (one-way) transport from Pereira for around $130,000 pesos (and half that from Armenia). You can negotiate a cheaper fare with an airport taxi driver or take a smaller connecting bus ($15,000 pesos) that leaves regularly throughout the day.
For those with more time than money, multiple bus companies make the trip from Bogota? to Armenia. A night bus can get you there in about six hours, while daytime traffic makes travel time unpredictable. With only a single road through high-mountain passes, one small accident or a few slow trucks can leave you commuting for 10 hours. The price is right though, with top-provider Expreso Boli?variano offering seats at around $60,000.
So whether by air or land, getting to Salento is an easy getaway from the big city bustle.
